This Summit Guides guide is intended for those independently crossing the Amphu Labtsa (5845m), or joining a commercial expedition.

Introduction

The Amphu Labtsa (also sometimes spelt Amphu Laptsa, Amphu Laptcha, Amphulapcha, Amphulabsta) is held in high regard by trekkers and mountaineers alike. Historically used by Nepalese seeking to connect the Honggu and Khumbu Valleys in the Mount Everest region of Eastern Nepal, today it is commonly used by trekkers travelling from Mera and Barantse Peak over to the Khumbu Valley, and vice versa.

Approaching the Amphu Labtsa Pass | Summit Guides

Starting the descent from the col | Summit Guides

How hard is the Amphu Labtsa?

Grade: Depending on conditions, it would probably get PD+ in the European Alps, but the presence of fixed lines softens this grade. Under heavy snow fall or avalanche conditions, it is potentially impassable, which combined with its position at the end of the long and remote Honggu Valley, gives it a commitment level beyond its modest grade.

What skills are required?: Easy rock scrambling, use of a lanyard on cables, abseiling (if going S-N), sure footed crampon and ice axe technique

Equipment: lanyard, fig 8 abseil device, crampons, ice axe, a min 40m rope (if going S-N), abseil tat, ascender (if going N-S)

When to go?

Spring season will tend to be quieter but have higher snow fall – in which case the Amphu Labtsa Pass could be impassable, and at risk from avalanche. Autumn/fall season sees less snow fall, making it a more popular time for this route.

Route Description

A pre-dawn start is useful to get you to the base of the difficulties for daylight. It is described S-N (Honggu - Khumbu Valley) direction, simply reverse if going the other way.

**Topo 1** Amphu Labtsa SE flank | Summit Guides

Approach from Amphu Labtsa BC.

Ascent (2 hours) see Topo 1:

Follow the vague path (marked with cairns) to the NE, to a scree rib. Head up this, leading to a shelf.
From here, two options exist – the normal route follows grade 1 scrambling up overlapping slabs, the easiest line following obvious but discontinuous cables and sometimes scrappy fixed rope. Alternatively if the rock is verglassed or there is lots of snow, put on crampons and take snow slopes and ice steps up left (this option is becoming easier with glacial retreat).
After 20 minutes, trend right and head towards a small col, with stunning views of Island Peak and Lhotse South Face behind.

Descent (2 hours) see Topo 2 and Topo 3:

1. Put on crampons at the col if you have not already done so, then descend cables and fixed lines for approximately 60m, trending climber’s left until you reach a small sloping rock ledge before an awkward steepening.

2. Two alternative methods may be used in descent

1) there is frequently old in situ Korean rope mounted on bolts that may be abseiled and/or downclimbed. Stepped out snow can make this more friendly.

2) if the Korean rope is missing, or damaged then it may be necessary to abseil using your own rope off the two bolts. ie. 2 x 50m will easily get you on to the snow slopes below, and 2 x 40m will get you passed the worst difficulties. A single 40m rope allows a series of abseils between single bolts, but be time consuming.

3. Traverse steep scree gullies (often snow covered) to the NW (Topo 3), staying high for 250m on sloping terraces to avoid the broken ground and cliffs below. This is consequential terrain and despite some in situ fixed ropes in places, the route is not obvious in poor weather or darkness. After 20-30 mins an obvious scree slope allows descent to the valley floor.

Time: Allow around 4 hours to get over the Amphu Labtsa, then a further 5 hours to Island Peak BC or 4 hours to Chukkung. This is a long and tiring day – perhaps best thought of as another peak objective such as Mera, rather than ‘just’ a pass.

Maps: Mount Everest Trekking Map 1:80000, Terraquest, 2019.

Warning: the cables have suffered from rockfall and are not continuous. Korean rope is often old and damaged, and should be treated with suspicion. There is some rock and ice fall risk throughout.

Porter care: porters frequently downclimb this without safety equipment – what is your team doing to safeguard them? Bags will probably be lowered.